Відео

Thanks!

Thank you! People used to hold 1/10 Crawler comps here back years ago when RC Crawling was in its nascent stage. 1/10 Crawlers have since become way too capable for this spot, and it would seem to be perfect for the smaller 1/24s and 1/18s now.

@@RevolutionX yeah my AX24 goes most places 10th guys with modified scale trucks go not everywhere but most

Yes, there is a chassis kit and the LC80 body. The links to the items should be in the video description. I'll check a bit later to make sure the links are there.

@@RevolutionX Would be greatful for that. New to this hobby wouldn't mind putting one of these together though. I'm coming from Model railroading so no stranger to kits and such!

@@JBryan352 just checked, the links are all there.

@@RevolutionX Thanks!

The gears are available on Asiatees. The link to them should be in the video description. Here they are. RCRUN Diff Gear (Front Axle) for RUN-80 - asiate.es/aff?l=205082&i=65348 RCRUN Diff Gear (Rear Axle) for RUN-80 - asiate.es/aff?l=205083&i=65348

Glad you liked it! Yeah the 10II Cherokee is still really fun to drive! ✌️

✌️Thank you! Appreciate it!

Yeah the RC4WD rigs don't come with a dust cover. Honestly, it's been fine though and hasn't been a problem. It does also keep the transmission a little quieter without the dust cover echoing the spur/pinion. The only thing I would say is make sure you put thread lock on the screws for the spur gear! Those screws like to back out if you don't put thread lock on them.

@@RevolutionX Yes I take you point about the sound, the dust cover resembles a speaker cone!

Yeah, stronger servos and motor are definitely in the future! 👍✌️

✌️🤙

Thank you! ✌️

The ISDT Brushed ESC also has the ability to adjust PWM. It's a lot more complicated and more headache than the 1080 though.

@@RevolutionX Thank you! Seems like cheaper option. I dont understand why brand/factory not just build the ESC with high pwm frequency and do something to remove the heat.

Thank you. It's the Element RC Ecto body

You can use PLA, but you just need to be aware of heat. PETG has a higher heat resistance than PLA. PLA can warp if it gets too hot, or if it just sits out in the sun.

@@RevolutionX kewl kewl man just made a purchase

im running the j concepts power master will your power master sliders work for that body it seems pretty close

Will ship today

Honestly, I don't know. I don't have that body yet. You could get those inexpensive proline power wagon cab clones off Amazon though.

www.armoryrchobbies.com/products/body-mounts/magnet-mount-system-for-bodies-with-no-holes/

A little late on the reply, but good morning.... er.... evening! 😂

Oh for sure! Maybe down the road, but I do have plenty of IFS builds planned!

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Ruptures are the best tire sir

@@lowslowcrawlers1304 Your opinion is noted....

I find tires to be YMMV and highly dependent on your terrain. These Ruptures seemed to do pretty good here. I usually run Proline BFG Krawlers in G8 since they do really well here. The foams weren't too bad, but I do want to try some 3D printed inserts.

I just used what I had on hand which are proline dual stage foams. I'll be trying some 3d Printed inserts in the future though. This is at CDM in Southern California.

I do the low compression method. Fill them up until about 5mm from the top. Then compress the shock with the piston just under the top of the oil while sealing the shock. I don't remember if these shocks caps have bleeder caps, but if these have bleeder caps, then just fill the shock all the way, put the cap on, and then compress the shock and let the excess oil bleed out and seal off the bleeder cap when the shock is compressed.

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It is awesome! It's the stock Boom Racing BRX02 Chassis.

Thank you! ✌️

I use these... www.armoryrchobbies.com/products/body-mounts/magnet-mount-system-for-bodies-with-no-holes/

Pro-Line class 1 BFG KM3 (4.19)

To be honest, it's been a long time since I messed with this unit. There are others now that are much easier to work with.

Did you tighten the diff cover too tightly? You may also need to put some shims to give the gears more separation.

SSD 1.9 Steel wheels and Pro-Line Class 1 BFG KM3 tires

@@RevolutionX thanks my dude! subbed!

I'm not going to make files available for purchase at this time. I need to figure out what I want to do first.

Yeah axle kits would be nice. I guess I could create a parts list when I have the chance.

Already have parts. Future upgrade 👍

Thanks! ✌️

It's a tough choice! IFS2 + Stealth XF or the IFS1 + Stealth X + ball bearings + much better body? Honestly, I wasn't too thrilled with having to replace the bushing for bearings in the Utron. I also feel like the body can only be saved in the looks department by the Knight Customs 3D printed parts. It's kind of oddly shaped in the cab and rear areas. The body for the Trailrunner wins hands down. I also actually prefer the StealthX vs the XF transmission. I think if I really wanted IFS2, I'd just pick it up separately or get the upcoming IFS2 Zuul.

@@RevolutionX ended up getting a clearance priced trailrunner then they had a $30 coupon so I put that towards a IFS2 conversion kit.

For a first time builder, I'd probably stick the SCX10III Basecamp kit, TRX4 Sport, or the Element Enduro Builder's kit. If you want portals then it'd be the 10.3 or the TRX4 Sport. The TRX4 Sport will come with body and wheels though which is perfect if you're more into trailing rather than hardcore rock walls. TRX4s really like to become heavy when you start gearing it for performance though. I don't have experience with the Basecamp kit yet, but I've built the JLU Kit. The Basecamp will be a better performer than the JLU kit because of the transmission and where the motor sits as opposed to the JLU 10.3 Kit. My JLU kit is a great trail rig as well, so that might be an option for you too if you like Jeeps. The Element Enduro kit will be the most nimble and versatile of the bunch as well as being a lot simpler with the straight axles. It's a close parallel to what the SCX10.2 was. A versatile and very capable chassis depending on how you set it up.

Thanks for such a detailed reply. I’ll have a look at the Enduro kit. Very much looking forward to the watching this build! Thanks.

Awesome! Thank you! ✌️

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Thanks for the sub! 🙏✌️

Thanks! 👍

Thanks! ✌️

Yeah really like the color and I like the rig a lot too. I might have to get another one!

Thank you! I think the TRX4M is great for doing scale builds for a micro crawler. The link to the interior is in the description if you're interested in using it.

I like the Ascent 18 body a lot. I do want to put a different body on one of these chassis, so I guess I'll need to pick up another Ascent 18! 😂

@RevolutionX I think that's a good idea! I'm expecting to add the redcat hop ups for weight and rims and tires, not sure which to choose. Ideas?

I am using magnet mounts. Armory RC Magnet Mounts for Bodies with holes - www.armoryrchobbies.com/products/body-mounts/magnet-mount-system-for-lexan-bodies-with-holes/

I haven't tried removing the clicking honestly. It doesn't bother me too much. If I remember correctly it had something to do with some shimming needed at the gear at the top of the transmission. As far as design flaw... maybe, but it doesn't affect performance. Just more of an annoyance.

@@RevolutionX Thanks for the reply. During the weekend, I shimmed the top gear, as Exocage did, and the clicking is gone! I just added one to each end.

Thank you very much! 🙏✌️

I didn't realize I didn't show it! I'll see if I can show it in the futre. It's pretty basic though, but it does the job.

Yeah the TWS kits are nice. I use a GoPro mounted onto a gooseneck adapter that clamps on to the radio to take videos.